Elizabethan Renaissance Faire Garb: Basic Essentials

If you're interested in dressing like a woman from the Elizabethan Renaissance era, there are a few key pieces that you'll need to create your wardrobe. While the styles and fashions of this period were varied and ever-changing, there are some basic items that all should have in their closet if they want to dress in this style. In this blog post, we will discuss the essential clothing items for an Elizabethan Renaissance wardrobe.

The Elizabethan era was all about the bling. While you can keep things more casual by forgoing beading and embroidery, why would you want to?? Looking fabulous is fun! The foundational garment would be the chemise, or shift. This was made out of white or beige linen or cotton. It was basic underwear for Elizabethan women. You had several looks, a basic fitted chemise, a voluminous style that most people imagine when they think of Faire ware, or a partlet style. This had a collar and cuffs with an opening down the middle. You could button it and wear it closed for modesty or you could wear it open and show that cleavage!

Speaking of which we now come to the corset or as is sometimes called "a pair of bodies" or "stays". The Elizabethan corset was more of a conical shape than the severely nipped in waist of a Victorian style corset. But what remains the same is the goal of smoothing out the figure and giving lift to the bust line. Much of Elizabethan fashion was cut to display deep cleavage but this is not for everyone. If you desire a more modest look, you can wear your partlet chemise closed or tuck the ladies into your corset. The corsets most frequently laced up the back but sometimes in the front as well. 

Next item is a hoop skirt or a "farthingale". Like corsets Elizabethan farthingales were more conical in shape rather than dramatically large and rounded a la Civil War fashions. This was meant to support the not inconsiderable weight of the undergown or underskirt. The undergown was usually very plain, laced in front, and meant to be worn under a bodice and overskirt. For those wishing to portray a less elevated status you can make the undergown out of quality material of decent weight and besides accessories you are done. For the rest of us the undergown or underskirt is then joined by the final bodice and overskirt. Usually, the overskirt is split in the front to showcase the underskirt. The final look will be like a triangle, with many underskirts adorned with beads and pearls. typically, the bodice and overgown were made of a solid color material and the underskirt of a printed or woven fabric. However, there are many variations that you can put together based on where you are going and who you want to portray. There is also a doublet style bodice in addition to a basic bodice. Most often they lace up the back or the side back. Doublet style bodices are open in the front, have a high collar like neck, cover most of the chest and are either laced or hooked in the front. 

Finally, we move into accessories, first touching on embellishments. There are a number of embellishments you can use: pearls, beads, appliques, spangles, ribbon (both solid and patterned), and buttons. Please do not use rick-rack. Please. If you are hand sewing, I have found embroidery thread is more secure than regular thread. Embroidery thread and can be pulled and divided into thinner threads. 

Hats include the soft cap, French hood, coif, tall cap, gabled hood or just a snood. They are excellent at containing hair in a flattering and period correct fashion. Accessories that put a fine touch include a drawstring pouch or basket for personal items, over partlets (they are different from a partlet chemise), jeweled girdle belts (which are like a beaded belt), and just jewelry in general. It's the perfect place to wear your big statement jewelry including broaches. 

For the gentlemen, things are simpler, although embellishment is fantastic for you as well. We start with a chemise, breeches (similar to long underwear) and most often hose of some kind. Next would be a doublet or tabard. Doublets were the main wear of Elizabethan men but tabards, which were like tunics with open sides, were also worn. Next were breeches, the Elizabethan pants. often, they buttoned at the knee and the legs were covered by hose underneath.

Now we move onto, as promised, the codpiece. A codpiece is a pouch or flap that attaches to the front of the trousers and covers the genitals. I have read that it originated to protect male modesty but considering what it evolved into that is rather disingenuous. As the 15th and 16th century wore on the codpiece became larger and more flamboyant with embellishments of all kinds. And, as expected, over time the fashion was larger and larger codpieces. 

There are a few final accessories for the gentlemen.  Belts were often worn, along with hats. Most often a soft cap, or coif.  Cloaks were another popular accessory and could be fastened at the neck or if short, draped over one shoulder.

This is just a basic foundation for your Elizabethan renaissance faire wardrobe. With a little imagination you can come up with any number of different looks, or embellishments. If you are looking for more resources, check out the renaissance faire website, they have a lot of good information on clothing as well as other topics. You can also find many pictures of these items online preserved in paintings of the era. Have fun and be safe!