Venetian Courtesan Dresses

The Venetian Renaissance was characterized by art, literature, and architecture – but what about fashion? The Venetians were known for their flamboyant dress codes rich with lace embellishments, full-length skirts and wide necklines. Not as much has been documented about the courtesan’s style of clothing -- the lesser-known side of Venetian fashion. In this blog post we explore these styles in detail to gain an insight into how the women of the Renaissance created a statement in the streets courtesy of glorious garments!

The era of this style of clothing piggy backs both the Tudor and Elizabethan eras. It originated in Venice, Rome and eventually became popular enough that it helped to break the hold of sumptuary laws as well as class divisions. Venetian courtesans were considered to be at the height and cutting edge of fashion. As the ladies of both upper and lower classes began to copy this fashion social norms and barriers began to break down. For example, a courtesan might violate sumptuary laws by wearing pearls and in turn those women considered "respectable" might be emboldened to do the same. Venetian courtesans were trend makers and over time the neck lines lowered, the length changed, and the popular sleeve shapes evolved. As this type of gown became the fashion Venice became a plume of bright colors. The highest classes in Venetian society, the Patricians, tended to wear black. As the courtesan fashions caught on women of all classes began wearing brighter colors. What once would have been considered vulgar was then deemed fashionable.

The most distinctive feature of Venetian courtesan gowns is the open "V" shape of the bodice. The bodice also has what is called "ladder lacing", meaning that the lacing in the front is closed with lacing that looks like the rungs on a ladder. But first we must start from the skin up.

As with many renaissance fashions an undershirt called a chemise or camica, was worn against the skin. It was usually made of white or off-white linen or muslin. This garment would protect the costly gowns from skin oils and sweat. Depending on social/monetary status the camica might be embroidered, or not.

Next, would come a corset. This would give you the bust support and smooth lines needed under the gown. The underskirt, if there was one, would be put on. After that, then comes the dress itself. Some gowns had sleeves attached and some were sleeveless, in which case various styles of sleeves could be tied on with laces. There are few documented sources in which the gown was worn without sleeves, but most remaining paintings are of upper class or noble women who would not have been painted without them. Fashion is all well and good but not so daring when you are being documented for posterity.

A very interesting feature of these gowns is that they were almost exclusively sewn to the bodice. If an underskirt was worn the bodice would be open down the front. If not, the bodice would be sewn without a front opening down the skirt.

Next, a white gathered fabric would be put in the front, over the corset, yet UNDER the laces, in order to fill the gap once the bodice of the gown is laced. Most interestingly, the bodice was exclusively closed with ladder lacing. Other gowns of the era might close in the front, but ladder lacing was a distinctive feature of Venetian Courtesan gowns. There were also no holes made in the fabric for the lacing. The mechanism of this type of lacing was all internal to the bodice. If you are inspired to make a gown of this type I would recommend searching for tutorials online. Personally, I would never have figured it out on my own. Ladder lacing can also be used for other types of renaissance dress. It is not exclusive to these types of fashion, but it was almost exclusively used for these types of gowns.

The sleeves used on Venetian courtesan gowns were largely the same as other sleeves in the Elizabethan era: fitted, loose, paned, puff-paned, or tabbed. One sleeve that is neither seen nor described is the hanging sleeve. This might be because farthingales (hoop) skirts were not worn with Venetian dress and so large hanging sleeves would have overwhelmed the gown.

There were, of course, other forms of accessories and adornment worn. Jeweled girdle belts, chopins, flag fans and silk mesh veils were worn. In this fashion, hats were not popular and were replaced by veils and hair adorned with pearls, broches, and precious jewels. Most women worn at least some part of their hair down and had their faces framed by short curls.

Flag fans were literally fans shaped like small flags. Most were decorated with embroidery, pearls, jewels, and tassels. This style of fan took the place of feather fans. Chopins were wooden very high platform shoes that served to protect ladies feet from the water, mud, or worse on the ground below her. It was fashionable to have them taller than was necessary. Perhaps because it forced the wearer to take very small, dainty steps.

The scandal of Venetian Courtesan dress were knee length breeches, or pants. YES, pants! Only the most daring would wear them and most women wore them beneath the traditional gown, the skirt tucked up a bit to reveal them. If worn these breeches were highly decorated with cut out or slashed fabric in bright, even clashing colors. I mean, what is the point of being scandalous if no one notices?

From the skin up, Venetian courtesan gowns were as intricate and detailed in construction as they are beautiful to behold. With its distinctive "V" bodice shape and ladder lacing closure, these elegant garments required skillful sewing techniques and attention to detail. The same could be said of the accessories used with such a dress: jeweled girdle belts, chopins, flag fans, mesh veils - all added further beauty to an already stunning ensemble. Whether you're looking for inspiration or attempting your own version of this iconic look from Renaissance history, it's clear that no matter where you start on your journey into fashioning this timeless outfit -whether at the skin or at the seams- you'll need patience and precision if want to recreate one of Venice's most memorable looks!